Victorian fashion history influences modern textile artist

Alessia Sushko in Abstract of Recollections and Andre Ornish wears ‘attorney Lamb stares down a ruffian’ at the Petiti Palais in Paris. (Photo by Sharon Avraham)

Mary Ornish presented a lecture, “Tattered Splendor,” at The Gaslamp Quarter Historical Foundation in the Gaslamp Museum at the Davis-Horton House on Jan. 18. The lecture series History Talks! is back again for 2023. Ornish, who goes by MartyO, is an internationally known textile artist. The presentation spoke about her love for the Victorian fashion era and how she uses elements from this period in her wearable art ensembles. She uses unconventional vintage linens and patchwork quilts as her fabric. She is a huge advocate for sustainable fashion and zero-waste designs.

One of the unique parts of this presentation was all the information she gave on the dangers of Victorian fashion. During this period people received arsenic and copper poisoning from the extremely popular Scheels emerald green dyed fabric used for gowns and wallpaper. When these green dresses became damp, toxic gases were emitted. Women wore lead-based makeup in order to have a pale complexion. This was damaging to their facial and hand nerves. Another danger were the hoop skirts and large crinolines worn during this era. They were both fire hazards, and the hems of these gowns picked up and carried unwanted germs, lice and were believed to transmit typhoid. In 1864, it was reported that 39,927 women died from their dresses catching on fire.

Dyed feathers for large hats cause more poisoning and illness. Feathered hats decimated several of the bird species almost to the verge of extinction. Additional dangers were the corsets that compressed ribs and pushed the internal organs upwards, causing physical illnesses and mobility problems, leading to falls. Celluloid hair combs exploded when women stood close to a heat source such as fireplaces.

Finally, MartyO discussed how mercury, which is poisonous, was used to create men’s top hats. This was where the term ‘Mad As A Hatter’ originated. Many of the workers such as seamstresses, hat makers, and feather dyers were over-exposed to toxins. They worked in deplorable conditions and became ill. Unfortunately, this still happens today. Many people around the world work in very unsafe textile factories that produce clothes with toxic chemicals in the fabric.

Last year, MartyO received many accolades for her sustainable and beautiful work. In the coming months she will exhibit at The Hague, Netherland, Brno Czech Republic, and Baden-Wurttlemberg, Germany. She recently received word that she has been accepted into the California Fibers group. This is such a distinguished honor!

Currently she is exhibiting in a group exhibition Kimono Reimagined, Visions Museum of Textile Arts in collaboration with San Diego Mesa College Fashion Program at the Japanese Friendship Garden Pavilion until Feb. 24. For more information about this multi-talented artist visit marty-o.com.

Upcoming Events

“Unstoppable Women”

Live Your Dream Awards Luncheon & Fashion Show at Sheraton San Diego Hotel & Marina on Saturday, March 18. For ticket, email Erin Liddell at: erinlids@gmail.com

— Diana Cavagnaro is an internationally renowned Couture Milliner based in Alpine, California. Learn more about our Hat Designer, Teacher & Blogger at DianaCavagnaro.com.

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